Munda Biddi Trail

The Munda Biddi trail is a 1000km off-road dedicated cycling trail from Mundaring, just outside Perth, to Albany. Having cycled the Mawson trail last year, this route was definitely on the to do list, and now the opportunity has come to ride it!

Saturday 12^th November 2016

I've been working (yes, really – despite being retired I do try and do something vaguely useful now and then) up in Morawa, 400kms north of Perth, for the last 2 weeks, and arrived back in Perth last night, staying with Anthony Seymour at his house in Como. He deserves a mention here because he has very kindly consented to loan me his almost brand new Merida Trail 300 mountain bike for the Munda Biddi ride. Having had the opportunity to ride it around Perth several hundred kms when I've stayed with Anthony before, I've found it a nice performer, very comfortable and I'm confident it will cope with the rough terrain that I'm expecting on the trail.

My good friend and cycling buddy Martyn Colebrook is joining me on this ride; he arrived at lunchtime on a flight from Sydney and we met up at About Bikes, near the centre of Perth on the Swan River, where he is hiring a bike for the ride. He's been issued with a Merida bike as well, his is a Big Nine model with 29” wheels so I'm going to struggle to keep up with him, no doubt.

By about 1pm we were ready to roll, and crossed the Swan River before heading east towards Midland:

Perth is well endowed with good cycle paths, which include routes along most of the north and south banks of the Swan River:

We stopped in Guildford for a good lunch at the Guildford Hotel; from there the cycle path followed the railway line for a few kms till we reached Midland:

From Midland we followed a scenic Railway Heritage trail, along a disused rail line:

The ride through the Swan View tunnel was pretty scary. It was very dark and long, and the surface was really rough, and there were quite a few big puddles of water:

Apart from inside the tunnel, the rest of the trail had quite a good surface and we were able to go at a decent pace:

There were a lot of side trails and it was necessary to stop and check the route frequently. We both have the route marked on our phone navigation apps.

There wasn't much water in Hovea falls despite there having been a lot of rainfall a few weeks ago:

After about 40kms we reached Mundaring, where the Munda Biddi trail starts:

We stayed the night at the Mundaring Weir Hotel which is about 5kms down the trail from Mundaring, and right by the huge dam built back in 1903 to create a water supply for the goldfields at Kalgoorlie, some 600kms to the east. This involved, as well as building the dam, the laying of what was then the world's longest pipeline. There's a section of the original pipe in the foreground of the photo below:

Along the short walk to the weir we saw lots of wallabies:

This is a memorial to C Y O'Connor, the driving force behind the creation of Mundaring Weir:

Mundaring Weir:

Distance today 46kms.

Sunday 13^th November

We got an early start, leaving at 7.40am, since we knew that today would be a long day and there would be no food or services available until we reached Jarrahdale. Even at that time it was already hot, and the temperature would climb to 35 degrees later.

Back on the trail, the going immediately became tough. It was very hilly, and the surface was not only rough but mostly covered in either pea gravel or sand. The trail wound a circuitous route through Jarrah forest and was hard to follow at times; fortunately we had it marked on our GPS mapping app on our phones which helped a great deal. We were out of phone signal most of the day but using the preloaded map we were still able to determine our exact position at all times.   

The route ran alongside the water pipeline for some of the way:

The little blue triangle on the yellow post is a Munda Biddi trail marker. These were fairly frequently sited along the route but it wasn't always easy to spot them as they were often somewhat faded:

At times the route was so steep that we had to get off and push, but it was hard to get a grip on the gravel surface:

Eventually we realised that the air pressure in our tires was too high, and having taken advice from some expert mountain bikers who passed by us, we lowered our pressures to about 28psi which improved the bikes handling considerably.

There had been a controlled burn quite recently and the smell of burning was quite intense:

It took us about 5 hours to ride the first 30kms, when we arrived at Carinyah, one of a number of free campsites along the Munda Biddi trail. We stopped for lunch and a rest:

After this the terrain did get a bit less hilly, though the gravel surface persisted. The wildflowers for which WA is famous were frequently to be seen:

As a change from the gravel we sometimes encountered deep sand which was even more difficult to ride through:

Around 5pm we arrived at Jarrahdale and made straight for the Jarrahdale Tavern to enjoy a well-deserved pint:

Accommodation was found above the nearby Post Office:

Distance today 77kms, total so far 123kms

Monday 14^th November

We left Jarrahdale at about 9am after a brief stop for Martyn to get his caffeine fix:

...and the trail immediately began to follow a steep gravelly ascent:

It was even hotter than the previous day and the going seemed even tougher.

Extreme caution was required on some of the descents:

Progress was so slow that it took us nearly 4 hours to travel the 22kms to North Dandelup Dam, where there was a pleasant picnic area. Despite many signs forbidding swimming, we could not resist the opportunity to cool off in the water there:

 It was another steep climb from the picnic area back to the road crossing the dam:

It was so hot by now that we decided to take a short cut and miss out the next section of the Munda Biddi trail, keeping to the tarmac road for the rest of the day. We're both fit, experienced cyclists but this is proving much tougher than we expected. We have been over ambitious in expecting to complete the entire trail in just 12 days; most people take around 3 weeks.But we have to be in Albany, the end of the trail, on or before Thursday 24^th November because we have flights booked back to Perth on that date. So we have to stick to our pre-arranged itinerary even if that means taking a few more shortcuts along the route.

A bit further along I spotted this echidna by the roadside, which unfortunately turned out to be dead:

We arrived in Dwellingup, today's destination, around 4.15pm and stopped off to buy some cold beer in the hotel, before checking in to the town's only accommodation, in a tourist park set in dense forest:

After a rest we walked back to the hotel and enjoyed a good dinner:

Distance today 53kms which doesn't sound like much but was in fact one of the toughest days riding I have ever done.

Total so far 176kms

Tuesday 15^th November

It was even hotter than yesterday. We didn't leave Dwellingup until around 10am because the waitress in the Blue Wren cafe misplaced Martyn's breakfast order so we had to wait a very long time for it to arrive.  

There was time for a quick look at the historic railway station before we hit the trail:

Although the trail surface was improving as we headed further south, with less gravel and sand, it remained very hilly:

Martyn's pannier flew off after he rode over a particularly big bump:

After 20kms we stopped at Nanga brook for a paddle in the cool fresh water:

The trail followed a wide, fairly smooth dirt road for much of the day. Everywhere we went, the trees showed evidence of recent burning:

We saw another echidna, this time it was still alive:

There were a few fallen trees obstructing our progress:

Some pushing was required...

… and the flies were a real nuisance:

Around 4pm we arrived at Lake Brockman, where we had originally planned to stay at the tourist park.

We'd been looking forward to a swim in the lake, however when we found that the resort's kitchen was about to close, they weren't offering any evening meals, and weren't even licensed to serve alcohol, we decided to move on to Harvey, some 12kms away, where we found accommodation and an excellent evening meal at the Amana Motel.

Distance today 74kms, total so far 250kms

Wednesday 16^th November

The day started overcast. The much cooler temperature was certainly welcome but it was clear that rain was on the way.

We'd deviated from the Munda Biddi trail in order to reach Harvey, so the first 10kms was down the South Western Highway:

Once back on the trail we were soon back onto the familiar gravel surface, with plenty of long steep climbs:

Around noon the rain started. It wasn't too heavy, just enough to be annoying. Martyn had fun building a makeshift shelter so he could enjoy his lunch without getting too wet:

We arrived at Collie, a fairly unattractive mining town at 2.30pm, soaking wet and cold.

The Collie Motel, the only accommodation in town, hadn't seen a facelift since the 1950s:

Dinner was at the Rajputhana Indian restaurant, where the food wasn't bad apart from the fact that there was no naan bread. Our suggestion that the waitress should go to the supermarket next door and buy some met with an indifferent response.

Distance today 54kms, total so far 304kms

Thursday 17^th November

The rain had stopped and it was warm and sunny again.

Martyn complained that his legs were getting tired. While I enjoyed a fine breakfast at Mc Donalds (the first we've seen since leaving Perth) he chose to eat at the Collie Fields hotel which was a lot nicer than it looks in this photo:

Back on the trail:

The trail suddenly became extremely rough and we were confronted with a steep, treacherous descent:

After descending unscathed we found that we had actually taken a wrong turn about 1km back. Normally we'd have retraced our path, but the thought of going back up that treacherous slope made us decide to hack across country to get back on the trail. This involved a bit of trespassing on private property, and some climbing over barbed wire fences:

We arrived at Boyanup in time for lunch at the general store:

Around 4.30pm we arrived at Donnybrook and stayed at the Donnybrook motel, which had an adequate pool to cool off in:

Dinner was in the Indian restaurant opposite the motel, and was very good. We were joined by a couple of friends from Perth:

Distance today 79kms, total so far 383kms

Friday 18^th November

It was yet another hot, sunny day. We didn't manage to leave Donnybrook until 9.45 after a very big breakfast at Tiffany's cafe. We soon found our way back onto the Munda Biddi trail at the edge of the town, however after a few kms there was a big diversion due to a planned controlled burn:

The trail then went through open countryside which made a pleasant change from the endless forests we've been going through so far:

After 40kms we arrived at the “ghost town” of Jarrahwood (not to be confused with Jarrahdale where we were earlier in the week) – this is a former timber milling town which now has only a handful of homes and inhabitants:

Fron Jarrahwood the trail followed a disused railway line to Nannup.

We stayed at the Black Cockatoo Lodge, a quirky place with comfortable cabins distributed apparently randomly through dense jungle...

... and enjoyed an excellent dinner at the Nannup Bridge Cafe.

Distance today 74kms, total so far 457kms

Saturday 19^th November

Breakfast in Nannup was at the Pickle-O cafe, and was rather filling. It was after 10 am by the time we left town.

It was yet another hot sunny day, but there was plenty of shade along the entire route. The first 15kms were along a wide gravel road:

In spite of the late start, we were making good progress and were on course for a nice early lunch at Donnelly River, the halfway destination for today, however about 30kms into the ride, Martyn's bike suddenly wouldn't change gears, the problem being a badly twisted chain link:

In over 20000kms of cycle touring I have never suffered a chain failure. It took us over an hour to get a replacement link fitted; however eventually the bike was fixed:

To be fair, the bikes have put up with a lot of hard punishment on the ride so far so we really can count ourselves lucky that this is the first breakdown we've experienced.

We arrived at the tiny settlement of Donnelly River around 2pm and had lunch at the general store:

Leaving Donnelly River the trail was somewhat obstructed by emus:

The afternoon's ride was a real adrenaline-filled rollercoaster of steep ascents, descents, and tight twisty turns through the forest. It was fantastic fun but exhausting, both physically and mentally owing to the degree of concentration needed to avoid crashing into the trees.

Back on tarmac later in the afternoon, Martyn had to stop for a few stretching exercises:

It was after 6pm by the time we arrived in Manjimup, and the first stop there was at the Manjimup Hotel for a much needed beer:

 Accommodation was at the nearby Manjimup Motor Inn. On arrival Martyn crashed out...

… but recovered in time to enjoy an excellent dinner at the motel's restaurant, under the watchful eye of Ned Kelly:

Distance today 80kms, total so far 537 kms

Sunday 20^th November

It was overcast, and somewhat cold, as we left Manjimup:

About 15km along the trail, we arrived at the Diamond Tree, one of a series of very tall trees across the southwestern forest region that was converted to a fire-watching lookout post. A ladder of metal stakes had been driven into the tree, allowing access to the treehouse at the top, some 52 metres above ground:

The views from the top were amazing:

Looking down from the top:

From here the Munda Biddi trail followed the main South Western Highway for a while:

Just before lunch we reached Pemberton, where there was another fire lookout tree to climb, the well-known Gloucester Tree:

After this we had a good lunch at the Pemberton Hotel:

In Pemberton we stopped by the tourist office where a helpful woman told us of a winery on our route that was open until 5pm. We thought we'd have no problem making it there in time, as it was only about 25kms away.

However back on the trail the going was hilly and rough:  

And at Moon's crossing, where we'd expected a bridge, we had to get across the Warren River.

The first part was rideable:

However the river then became deeper, the rocks underneath were very slippery, and there was quite a strong current. With a laptop in my panniers I wasn't going to risk cycling across this stretch:

We made it to the Hillbrook winery at 4.55, just in time to enjoy a tasting of their produce which was pretty good:

From the winery it was a 15km ride on a tarmac road to the day's destination, the tiny town of Northcliffe, where we stayed at the only motel.

Distance today 78kms, total so far 615kms

Monday 21^st November

As usual, breakfast took longer than it should have and it was after 10am by the time we hit the road, It was cloudy and not very warm, but the forecast assured us we would have a dry day, and so it proved to be.

Thee first half of the day's ride was  through the D'Entrecasteaux National Park, where there were a few farms dotted around:

Unusual way to store bikes:

At 16kms we arrived at another fire-watching tree, the Boorara Tree - this one can no longer be climbed as the lower ladder posts have been removed:

There were many gravel roads through the park and it was necessary to stop frequently to check the route:

Plenty of wildflowers were in bloom along this section of the trail:

After 45kms we left the Munda Biddi as time was getting on, taking a short cut along the main South Western Highway for the remaining 45kms. We arrived in Walpole just after 5pm and stayed at the very pleasant Treetops Motel where we also had dinner.

Distance today 90kms, total so far 705kms

Tuesday 22^nd November

We managed to get away at 9am, somewhat earlier than usual. It was a beautiful sunny day and we began by riding down to the jetty for a look at Walpole Bay:

Leaving Walpole we fould ourselves almost immediately on a 5km long, very steep dirt road up to the Giant Tingle Tree. On the way up there was a scenic lookout:

The Giant Tingle tree is around 400 years old, and has been hollowed out by termites, fungi, and fire:

It was great to see this famous tree again almost exactly 5 years since I last visited here ,  on an earlier bike tour – the weather then having been cold, wet, and foggy.

From here there was a steep downhill followed by a few kms along the South Western Highway, until we branched off again up another long, steep hill to reach the Valley of the Giants, a scenic aerial walkway through a forest of huge Karri and Tingle trees:

The route then followed the Munda Biddi trail for a few kilometers before returning to the highway:

We arrived at the Bow Bridge roadhouse in time for lunch:

After lunch, a few kms further along the highway led to the start of a disused rail trail that led all the way to Denmark:

The rail trail was nice and flat, as expected, but encompassed a wide spectrum of different surfaces, including thick grass, deep sand, gravel and soft mud. Most of it was quite good riding, however the flies were a real nuisance all afternoon:

Blue Tongue Lizard seen on the trail:

Around 5pm we arrived at Denmark where we found accommodation at the Denmark Hotel:

The hotel overlooked the Denmark River where there was a pleasant riverside park:

We had a very good dinner at the Denmark Tavern, a 10 minute walk uphill from our hotel.

Distance today 74kms, total so far 779kms

Wednesday 23^rd November

It was a beautiful sunny day We left Denmark just after 9am and headed along the South Western Highway for about 10km before we could get back onto the Munda Biddi trail. It proved to be narrow and quite overgrown:

Later the trail returned to tarmac side roads for quite a few kms, before following another disused rail trail:

The terrain was flat and we made very good progress, arriving at Albany just after noon.

Entering the town we saw the replica of the brig “Amity”, the ship that brought the first settlers to Albany, and, in the distance, the huge Entertainment Centre and Mt Clarence:

The first thing we did on arrival was to have our photo taken at the Munda Biddi trailhead:

In the visitors centre close by we signed the trail register. Not many people seemed to have been riding the trail, and those that had done so seemed to have taken far longer than we did.

130700

After checking into the Royal George Hotel, a heritage building nearby, and enjoying a good lunch there, we took a ride around the town, which has many fine heritage buildings:

We then rode uphll to the Anzac memorial where there was a lookout with excellent views of the harbour, from where a fleet carrying 40000 Australian servicemen departed in late 1914 to serve in the Gallipoli campaign, a third of whom never returned home.

Nearby is a new museum dedicated to the Anzac force, but we didn't have time to go in:

Further on we came to Middleton beach, where Martyn had a swim.

The route back to town was along a cliffside cyclepath:

Back in town we visited Alkoomi Wines and tasted 13 wines in a very short space of time. They were all good!

We returned to our hotel for a drink:

Dinner was at the Venezia Italian restaurant which was excellent. We've certainly eaten well on this trip.

Distance today 76kms, total so far 855kms

Thursday 24th November

We had booked onto an early afternoon flight back to Perth, and on the ride to the airport there was time to visit another winery, Oranje Traktor - a boutique operation that has the distinction of having welcomed Prince Charles and Camilla on their visit to Australia in 2015. We were given a very informative talk about how the wines are produced there, while enjoying tastings of several of them:

At Albany airport we wrapped the bikes with bubble wrap, and they travelled back with us on the plane as part of our baggage allowance.

The flight back to Perth took about an hour and it didn't take long to unwrap and reassemble them for the ride back into the city:

We arrived back at the hire shop where Martyn had to return his bike, just before 5pm.

Total distance cycled today was 32kms, giving an overall total of 887kms for the entire trip.

And so another big adventure ended! It certainly was a great ride through magnificent countryside, and the Munda Biddi trail is generally well signed and easy to follow. Some sections are quite technically challenging, almost all of it is hilly, and there are many kilometres of gravel surfaces. It would have been nice to have taken longer over it, but that would have involved camping, and therefore having to carry a lot more equipment. As it was, we had to take a few short cuts and so didn't ride the whole of the Munda Biddi trail, but probably only missed out about 1/5th of it.

If you've read this far, thank you! Please leave a comment if you can, also any suggestions for my next big cycling adventure are most welcome!